Several months ago, one of you guys on Instagram messaged me and asked about the details on dermaplaning – what is it and is it worth it? I had to get back to her because I wanted to take a look at the evidence behind this procedure. Well, now I’ve looked, and it didn’t take too long because unfortunately there is not a whole lot out there about it.
What is dermaplaning?
The concept behind it is simple. It involves taking a scalpel and running it lightly across the surface of the skin to act as an exfoliant, removing dead skin and baby hairs (“peach fuzz” or vellus hairs). It is said to make the skin appear brighter, makeup is applied more smoothly, and skincare products will penetrate more deeply. Usually this procedure is done by an esthetician at a spa or salon, and is offered in conjunction with another treatment such as a chemical peel or mask. Costs run anywhere from $65 to $150 depending on location of the spa and whether you’re purchasing this service as a package deal.
What’s the evidence?
I looked into the scientific evidence behind this, hoping to find a paper that compares derma planing to, say, microdermabrasion or chemical exfoliants like glycol acid peels or alpha hydroxy acid containing products, or even retinoids…but there’s nothing out there. I found one review of the literature which explains what dermplaning is, but does not touch on efficacy.
My Take
Without having evidence for comparison, it’s hard to say whether I would recommend dermaplaning over other procedures. What is consistent though is that dermplaning offers removal of peach fuzz on the face, which the other procedures do not do. Without fine vellus hairs on the face, it is reasonable to assume that makeup can be applied in a smoother fashion. (Although this Refinery 29 writer did NOT like the hair removal effects on her sensitive skin…) If you don’t really care about the hairs, then I would not say that dermaplaning offers better exfoliation than other tried and true methods, such as using chemical peels or topical retinoids. Until we see the evidence, I’ll be sticking to what is tried, tested, and true!
So interesting! Thanks for this info! Could you tell us what mass marketed chemical peels or topical retinoids you recommend?
Hi Kristen, for home use I like the Drunk Elephant aha and Bha or glycolic acid products; in the office I’ve done Glytone peels (the peel strength and ingredients depend on your skin type and problem areas). Topical retinoids also depend on what your skin can tolerate. Differin is over the counter, easy to purchase, good for acne. Tretinoin is prescribed but comes in cream and gel forms. Tazorac is the strongest form of retinoid but causes the most irritation. So it depends on your skin and what it can tolerate!
Thank you, Joyce!
I’ve actually also been wondering if dermaplaning was worth the hype. It sounds great if you are a makeup junkie and want that smooth application, but I have seen claims of having anti aging benefits. That to me seems a little far fetched, but like you said there isn’t really any evidence on the procedure.
Shann Eileen | http://www.shanneileen.com
Hi! I wondered what your thoughts were on Vintner’s Daughter. I’ve been slowly trying to switch my skin care products over to Skinseuticals, but now am seeing a ton of hype around V.D. Serum. I don’t have a ton to spend on products so want to choose wisely. Thanks, Joyce!
Hi Kristen, thanks for alerting me to this brand. I haven’t heard of it before somehow! I see that it is a blend of 22 natural botanical oils distilled into one face oil. There are RAVE reviews about this product; even I want to try it out after reading all the reviews. In terms of scientific evidence, the jury is still out about essential oils. There isn’t clinically proven efficacy of essential oils on skin appearance or on anti-aging. Also, bergamot, an ingredient inside this formulation, can make you more sun sensitive.
Thank you so much for your reply!